Ballerinas / Soledad square

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Penultimate Post?

Leaving Oaxaca is like leaving an old friend, my family. It has always been thus, and  my heart is heavy.

This is a real life trip! Not vacation. I’ve learned so much ─ how to get water, go to the doctor, keep the cockroaches away, do the laundry, shop at the markets, cook for myself! My Spanish has improved just by listening and speaking; the Oaxaqueños are patient and sweet with me.  Mostly I’ve been in the city ─ lived in three different neighborhoods ─ and I’ve been out to Monte Alban (first time in 7 years) and the market at Tlacolula (not since 15 years). I’ve haunted the Zocalo ─ it’s best in the mornings when the vendors haven’t yet cluttered it’s beautiful plazas ─ listened to the state band, attended the Anteguerra ─ a lovely musical ensemble and children’s Christmas choir ─ gone to an art opening, lunched with friends, watched the New Years Eve fireworks at Santo Domingo from bed, and learned about renting apartments and building houses. Attended an Anglican service and a Catholic Mass ─ neither are quite right for me. Could I start a UCC in Oaxaca? I’ve been writing!

I want to live here. I knew it a week into the visit. I have one immediate and important thing to tend to ─ learning how to manage my allergies in this dry season when dust and pollution hang heavy in the air. I must also plan dear old Dexter’s care. This is a tough place for a big old dog ─ he’d have to stay in the house, going out only at certain times to a park where there is space for him to walk. Maybe he’d be happy enough just being with me. We’ll see if he lasts the year or so before I move.

Thank you, dear friends, for riding along with me on this journey. It’s been that much more joyous, inspiring and enlightening because you have followed and encouraged me. Nos vemos pronto, we’ll see each other soon.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

El primero de Enero 2011

Los trabajadores de municipio, the city workers, must have been up all night sweeping, you could eat off the streets this morning, and only one balloon vendor in the Zocalo! Breakfast with Jim Breedlove, with whom I delivered art books 5 years ago ─ donated by Francisco Toledo, the city’s preeminent artist ─ to one of the villages. It was a project of Libros Para Pueblos, an organization that works with parents, teachers and town leaders to provide appealing spaces and attractive books so Oaxacan children can learn to read for fun.

Here’s a denouement to a 7-year mystery:
The First Congregational Church of Berkeley women who came with me to Oaxaca in 2003, brought a check from the church for $200 for Libros Para Pueblos. Some will remember. Months after our trip, someone from Outreach told me the check was never cashed. In the topsy-turvy-ness of divorce, I didn’t follow up. I mentioned this to Jim over breakfast today. He remembered the check well and apologized for Libros Para Pueblos for not following up ─ they didn’t feel they could accept a donation directly from a church; too much evangelizing here.  

Oaxaca’s new Presidente del Municipio, mayor, was inaugurated this morning at La Plaza de la Danza in front of the Soledad church ─ lots of people in suits, lots of speeches. Oaxaqueños are cautiously optimistic, eternally hopeful ─ a new mayor, new governor, new party (PAN), new start.